Sunday, 6 February 2011

Omar's "CLICK BRIGADE" Autumn/Winter 2011 Collection

Working on Omar's up and coming collection has been such a pleasure and a real opportunity to watch how a single idea becomes another fantastically successful collection.

Firstly, the differences that I have noticed between me (mere student) and the designer is that were I spend so long on pages pages on, really when I look at it, unnecessary research Omar does a mood board/wall of inspiring visuals, exhibits that move him, key words and statements, colour ideas and directions. Where I should be gathering relevant images and cross-referencing them better and then responding in more detail to the specialised images I usually gather so much research that it changes my ideas to the point that I don't know what direction I was going in in the first place. So already Omar has taught me to head in a much more organised and clear path - so that I can see clearly what I am trying to express.

 
From here he then has an idea on key elements of the collection and begins to design. My designs are normally overly detailed and every single one is completely different from the next. I also have this way of never following a system of designing either and everything ends up become so over-complicated and time costly. From Omar I have learnt to use a Photoshopped illustration of a model pose as a base and draw the simple shapes that you want to achieve and then add the details to certain areas and concentrated more on these details I am trying to create. All the main details of shaping etc to the garment will all be made and adjusted in the sampling and toiling stages and that you can't be over-detailed in these drawings and to spend more time on the actual making side of the garments. So here, I have learnt to free up my drawings, I have found a model pose that i have photoshopped for an easy template and I will take more time and concentration on this stage of the process.



From here Omar begins his sampling, adaptions etc etc with is a very lengthy process that requires precise decisions of every element, from thread to stitch to finishings - so that the finished garment will be made to perfection first time round NO MISTAKES! This is the area where I need to pay more attention to - spending this quality time with the garment, knowing every cut, stitch and detail of every inch of it. This is again an area that we always have rushed when we are Uni, we spend weeks and weeks on research and sketch book work and then what seems like a few short lessons on making and perfecting a garment to the high standards in which we desire our garments aspire to. This is certainly an area in which I am looking forward to putting to good use when I return to Uni - let's see if it makes a difference.


Omar's collection 'Click Brigade' is based on the concept of an army or brigade of the Omar Kashoura man. It is inspired by areas of a military esq ideas but not in the way of the more noticable Aquascutum jackets but more subtly in the toy soldiers print, belts and touches of forest green and shoulder detailing. It is definately a tailored sportswear collection with loose fitting but oh so luxurious jersey wool fabrics, which are so breathably easy to wear but have little extra details that make them more desirable then the usual t-shirt. Such as metalic green and burnt orange metaled fabrics and brightly coloured trimming for edges. The shirtings I appreciate the most. Not only are they made with the most beautifully created 100% cotton fabrics, in an array of well thought out colours but with the little extra details that I think may go a-miss. Such as the removable collars that have a cm strip of soft jersey attached so simply but really makes a beautful difference. I love how his collection is made of every shade of grey that has been made to man, I love the print in the nude toy solider print and that the trousers are screwed up to give them that worn look.

I love the knit and that I got to the knitwear studio and help her with Omar's samples and jumpers that she was making for him, She was amazing and very interesting to watch. I look forward to staying in contact with her as I think the things she makes are amazing and there is so much un-noticed hard work that goes into every stitch of every piece of every garment she makes. She also let me take some photos of her studio.






Overall there has so much attention to detail to each and every element to this collection i am just so proud to say that I have been apart of it. I have already seen the Pictures from Barclenoa and am already amazed at the high quality of each outfit. I cannot wait to see how it goes down at London Fashion Week, which I am so happy that I will get to be apart of too - WHOO HOO!!!!!!!

So keep your eye out for my next posts, I cannot wait, and I will tell you all about it.

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